Check-in was breeze and was completed by opening the door to the office and saying hello we are here. The women behind the desk smiled and told us what time happy hour would start, when the dinner bell would ring, and that the key was in the door of room.
After driving most of the day we decided to walk down to the river by the lodge before heading to the Riverside House. Immediately the sounds of water flowing over the rocks brought a sense of peace over both of us.
There were canoes and kayaks on the shore for anyone to use as well as a sauna house. Unfortunately, we did not get a chance to enjoy the sauna house. A sauna and a run to the river would have been fun. It was hard to leave the river, but we were ready to dump the luggage and see what our lodging would offer.
The Riverside House is where we stayed for our getaway. This old farmhouse was much like our home and it almost seemed strange that we would choose this place for our getaway since we live in a farmhouse much like the one pictured. We have a pond, not a river, but it is close. However, we do not have the mountain air, which always seems so crisp and refreshing. The house has been modified for guests and has 5 separate bedrooms with baths and a common living room and kitchen for all to use. The kitchen has everything you need to fix a meal or open a bottle of wine. We only did the later, and saved meal preparation for breakfast and dinner at the lodge.
We immediately dropped our bags and headed to the river. Once again, the sound of moving water could be heard the closer we got to the river, and leaves could be seen heading down river to find a welcoming riverbank. We met a couple who were our house mates that have been coming to Fort Lewis for years. They were fishing with little luck this day but gave us a good overview of things to do and see during our visit. Janet eying the kayaks could not resist the call of the river. Slipping on a life jacket she slowly paddled upriver investigating both shores and what lay beneath her.
The water is crystal clear and Janet was officially a “happy camper” now!
Happy hour starts promptly at 6:30 so we cleaned up and dressed for dinner. Never having stayed at Fort Lewis before we were clueless on the dress code. We learned from the fishing couple earlier in the day that “casual” was the dress for all meals. Oh… did we so over pack! The short drive to lodge from the Riverside House offered mountain views as the night pushed the day away.
I think what we enjoyed most about our stay at Fort Lewis was what we discovered at happy hour. No not the drinks, but the people we met. This would stay true throughout our respite. The fishing couple had been very informative and helpful earlier in the day, and now while we sipped wine, we met another wonderful couple from Lynchburg area. Drinks turned to dinner and a wonderful farm fresh dinner was served and our conversations continued.
The food at Fort Lewis is prepared and served by the owner and her grown children. It is definitely a family run business with extra help to make things run smoothly. Dinner was truly a farm dinner. Fresh ingredients, seasoned well, and cooked to perfection. Following the safety rules of the day, no longer was it a buffet style meal of days gone by. The dinner was laid out in a buffet, but the staff served up individual plates. If one is looking for Michelin Star cuisine, it is not. However, it is farm cooking at its best. We enjoyed it so much that no pictures were taken – sorry – but trust us it was very good.
After dinner we headed back to the Riverside House and called it a day. It is extremely dark in the mountains and the fresh air is abundant. Sleeping in house with other people is always a little weird to us however it did not stop sleep from catching up with us quickly. Sometime around 1ish, we were treated to another country experience as a nearby skunk let us know he was in the area.
Up early we could smell brewing coffee from the downstairs kitchen. One of our neighbors had made the morning pot and we enjoyed a cup before returning to the lodge for breakfast. A country breakfast offered all the nutrition we would need for our day’s adventure. It would be a Janet morning, just like Arizona in May, and the Hickory Loop Trail would be our hike of the day.
The trail offered us some great views of the valley and the overlook of Fort Lewis Lodge and the surrounding mountains. The walk started with quite an uphill climb. After the first 300 yards, Tom was not sure there was enough oxygen in the world to satisfy his requirements.
After that the trail leveled off and continued weaving its way through tall standing trees with green fauna and some very interesting looking mushrooms. We even crossed paths with the Tin Man! It was so strange to see this Wizard of Oz character in the middle of nowhere.
The trail also offered scenic overlooks that were very well marked.
Eventually, the path took us to an overlook that we could see most of the Fort Lewis Farm. The green grasses highlighted the lodge, cabins, and some of the outbuildings. If one looks carefully and follows the river line on the right side of the photo until the river works its way to left side, they will see the roofs of the Riverside House barns at the foot of the mountains.
This gives one an idea of the enormity of this farm. We followed the loop back to our car and were grateful that the first hill we climbed was now downhill back to the car. We returned to the Riverside house and realized we had worked up an appetite. We decided to ride over to Warm Springs for lunch and look around, so we were off again. Mileage wise it was not far, but the drive was almost all backroads and a few serious climbs were involved.
Reaching an altitude of 3000 feet, we pulled off at the Dan Ingalls Overlook to take in the view. However, we were in the clouds and there was no view to see. The temperature was considerably cooler and a light wind carried the clouds by us. We continued our journey to the town of Warm Springs. Upon arriving, we found that on Wednesdays the town was sound asleep. Not a car was moving, or a person to be seen, and there were no cute stores open to wander around admiring mountain craftsmanship. The sidewalks in this town were rolled up and the restaurants were closed at 1 pm.
Now our stomachs were beginning to have a serious growl that would scare most small children so we drove on to Hot Springs, which is the location of the Homestead Resort. Certainly, there would be something open there. The Homestead is a Virginia landmark institution, with lots of history. In fact, we spent a few nights there on our honeymoon forty-three years ago. The resort has undergone some major renovation, but still needs more to bring it back to the glory years.
It did not take long to realize that Hot Springs and Warm Springs have something in common on Wednesdays… The town was dead. Looking around there was nothing open serving food and our tummies screamed louder. We walked around until we saw a sign that led us to a hole in the wall that would be our oasis.
We mention this lunch because it was out of this world. It may have been because we were starving, but the potato soup was reminiscent of Tom’s grandmother’s and the rye cheese melted in your mouth. Finishing our first cold beer, we decided a second lager would be required. Completely nourished, we explored the grounds of the Homestead before we headed back over the mountain to Fort Lewis.
The historic 1st tee of the Homestead has had multiple US Presidents walk down the fairway. For some reason when we were on our honeymoon at the resort, Tom never got up in the morning and said, I would like to play a round a golf like Woodrow Wilson. After a little research, Tom decided that a round of golf may not have been that bad of idea after seeing this picture of Edith.
We continued our exploration and discovered the pool and hot tub area.
Both water retreats are heated with the pool being a toasty 85 degrees on a chilly fall day.
After returning a different way to the Riverside House, we pulled into the driveway to see a couple walking down to the river. They were dressed in bathing suits and we stopped to tease them, asking if they were going for a swim? One would think a mountain river in October just might be a little chilly. Confidently, the man replied, yep, he was going to take a dip. We hustled to our rooms and changed. Janet was shocked when she turned to see Tom putting on a bathing suit. It must have been a male challenge he was responding to and he was determined to get wet.
Arriving at the river, we chatted with our house mates, Lee and Cheryl, getting to know them, while building up the courage to take the plunge. Lee had already manned up before we arrived. Tom picked up a tube and walked upriver. Finding a good launching point he did a superman dive onto the tube and the current did the rest.
You may not know this, but a mountain river in Virginia in October is pretty damn cold, but the challenge had been met. In fact, Tom enjoyed his float while watching small fish and leaves float downstream with him. We chatted awhile longer with our new friends before deciding a warm shower and some wine and cheese on the front porch before the dinner bell would be enjoyable.
Sitting with Lee and Cheryl on the front porch is what Fort Lewis is all about, meeting folks in a very chilled environment surrounded by nature and beauty while enjoying a glass of wine as the sun slowly disappears. We packed up the porch wines and treats and headed to dinner. The night was beautiful at the lodge and we decided to sit outside for our dinner. Once again, another solid meal. Tonight, would be a salmon dish, which is not a favorite but was prepared well and had a wonderful sauce. Following dinner and dessert, the four of us wandered over to the pavilion where there was a large fire roaring. We continued our conversations but our eyelids from the day’s adventure, mixed with a little wine, and a farm dinner had caught up to us. We closed the fire screen and called it day.
Again, we took roads less traveled and for the most part avoided the major highways to our next destination – Barboursville Vineyards. The wines from these vineyards are arguably some of the best, if not the best, being made in Virginia. Our drive went by quickly as we travelled up and down the mountains with a few switchbacks for fun. Making great time, allowed us the opportunity to us to check into our hotel in Charlottesville before we headed to the winery for our library tasting.
Barboursville Vineyards is about 30 minutes outside of Charlottesville where Route 20 and Route 33 cross in Orange County, Virginia. The vineyards are on the site of the home of James Barbour, who was a former governor, senator, and a major supporter of agriculture in the piedmont of Virginia. The original house still stands, but in ruins. Designed by Governor Barbour’s close friend, Thomas Jefferson, unfortunately it was destroyed by fire on Christmas Day. Barbour died in 1842 and the fire occurred two years later in 1844.
After exploring the grounds and stretching our legs, the scheduled tasting time was soon upon us. Looking across the fields from the ruins, we could see the winery.
The grey clouds we had been seeing all day finally started dripping water. We cut into the tasting room and asked directions to the library where our tasting would occur. Following the guidance given, we walked down a hallway that allowed us to glimpse into the barrel room. Oak barrels filled with Barboursville’s flagship wine, Octagon, were lined neatly in row. Octagon is a Bordeaux blend and an extremely enjoyable libation.
When Tom finished gawking at the barrel room, we settled down at the table overlooking the Virginia countryside. A glass of Barboursville Viognier and a wonderful Charcuterie Board is where we started before the formal tasting. Perusing the possible tasting flights available, we both gravitated to the Octagon / Cabernet Franc offering, which would allow us to taste three past vintages of each wine. We chose wisely! The tasting did not disappoint! Tom was very happy that when we returned home, he could recreate the tasting with wines already in our cellar that have been sleeping for years.
Returning to Charlottesville, we cleaned up and walked downtown to walking mall. Our anniversary dinner would be enjoyed at Brasserie Saison with Blake and Paula, our cousins. We have not seen them since the “COVID germ” struck and changed all our lives. Blake was in our wedding so that allow us to reminisce of the night 43 years ago. At 7 o’clock, the four of us raised a glass and toasted our anniversary. It being the time of our ceremony many moons ago, we sealed the moment with a kiss.
After dinner we walked down the market square continuing catching up on family matters. When we reached our hotel we said goodbye to our cousins with a hug and promises to get together soon. This wonderful dinner with family brought an end to our three day birthday/anniversary getaway and a excellent way to celebrate 65 years of life, with 43 of those years together.
